Idyllwild through the seasons: when to visit

At 5,400 feet, Idyllwild has four real seasons, which is half the reason people from the valleys and the coast come up. Each one changes what the town is for, and what the drive is like. Here is the year, with the fixtures worth planning around; the exact dates for each one are on the calendar when they are announced.

Winter: December to February

Snow falls some weeks and not others; a big storm can close the roads for a day and leave the village white for a week. Children sled on the open slopes near town, the restaurants are at their coziest, and midweek the place is quiet. Chains may be required on Highways 243 and 74 after a storm, so check road conditions before leaving and carry them regardless. The tree lighting on the Saturday after Thanksgiving opens the season.

Spring: March to May

The creeks run, the lower trails open while the peaks keep their snow into May, and the valley below is in wildflower while the hill is still cool. It is the best season for the longer walks before the heat, and the quietest for lodging outside the holiday weekends.

Summer: June to August

The busy season. Days in the eighties and nights in the fifties, which is the whole point for visitors from the desert and the inland valleys. The free summer concerts run on Thursday evenings in July and August, the Fourth of July brings a parade through the village, the academy’s summer program fills the calendar with performances, and the Lemon Lily Festival at the Nature Center celebrates the mountain’s own flower in July. Late summer brings afternoon thunderstorms; start hikes early. Fire season is real: check the current restrictions before planning a campfire or a barbecue, and know where the exits are.

Fall: September to November

Many locals’ favourite. The black oaks turn, the air clears, the crowds thin after Labor Day and the music keeps going on the weekends. October has the art walk and wine tasting and Halloween in the village; November ends with the tree lighting. Weekends in October are the one time in the fall to book ahead.

The drive, any time of year

• From Los Angeles and the Inland Empire, Interstate 10 to Banning and Highway 243 up the north side, a winding hour of forest and views. From San Diego and Hemet, Highway 74 up the west side. From Palm Springs and the desert, Highway 74 from Palm Desert over the Pines to Palms highway. About two hours from each city, more on holiday weekends.
• Both highways are mountain roads: allow time, watch for cyclists and deer, and check road conditions in winter.
• Mobile coverage drops out on the way up. Download your maps, and the calendar page, before you leave the freeway.
• Book lodging early for Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, Labor Day, October weekends and the week between Christmas and New Year. The Lodging Guide lists the local places.